Ever wanted to purchase a leather product only to be disappointed by the quality? That’s because the word ‘leather’ is so overused that it can be difficult to decipher between full-grain and it’s lowest quality sibling, bonded leather. There are important nuances to lookout for when it comes to leather. We did the research on this topic so you don’t have to! Let’s dive into the different types of leather and review a product description so you are getting what you paid for.

Let’s Start with Layers

Leather is made up of multiple layers.

• Full-Grain Leather or Grain Leather: The MVP of leather, full-grain includes the entire grain with very little processing. It’s super durable, breathes well, and develops a unique patina over time—a true sign of quality. Perfect for footwear that you want to last and evolve with your style. Because it is natural, often times you can still see the imperfections in the leather — like stretchmarks, insect bites and other wear and tear. That is what gives it its character. It is thicker and more durable because it includes the outer layer in addition to top grain, which is technically underneath the outermost layer.
  • Examples: Brown Leather Sandals, Toe Wrapper Sandals
• Top-Grain Leather: A bit more refined, top-grain leather is what you see when the imperfections are lightly buffed from the outer most layer. It’s flexible and has a smooth finish, but it doesn’t develop a patina like full-grain. It is preferable if you prefer a consistently sleek look. Calfskin used in designer shoes can be either full-grain or top-grain, depending on the shoemaker’s preferences. Because most designer or luxury pumps/footwear has a beautiful smooth finish, it is likely that it is made of top grain calf leather. It is also very durable and supple. Based on our research, this is a sweet spot for ladies shoes unless they’re rugged outdoorsy boots!
  • Examples: Saint Laurent Calfskin Flats, Ines Mule by Larroudé

• Split-Grain Leather: Split leather comes from the part of the hide which has been leftover once the top-grain has been ‘split’ from the rest of the hide. 
  • Suede: Suede is the first layer once the top is split. It has a delicate and soft texture that comes from the underside of the skin of various animals, including sheep, goats, calves, deer, and pigs. It can be lower quality than top grain leather (but still very nice). It is higher quality than bonded lower layers. Suede has a beautiful finish of its own so it is often used for footwear just as is without excessive amounts of finishing. Lastly, it is less durable so it has to be well-maintained.
  • Bonded Leather: At the bottom of the barrel, bonded leather is made from ground-up leather scraps bonded with adhesives like polyurethane. It’s the least durable and is often used in very low-cost shoes. Often it cracks or peels overtime. It can be easily scratched off or nicked. Because it is mixed with chemicals, it appears shiny and smooth but on its own it lacks visual appeal.

Now that we know what’s in the layers, lets move onto where leather comes from. What are the most commonly used types? And what makes them different?

What is the most commonly used leather? Where does it come from? What are its unique qualities?

• Cow or Cowhide: Comes from cows. Known for its thickness and natural grain visibility, this leather strikes a balance between softness and rigidity, thanks to a light wash that enhances its texture. It boasts a sleek and rich appearance, making it suitable for high-quality footwear and accessories. It is also the most common type of leather, accounting for almost 70% of global hide production.
• Calfskin: Calfskin comes from cows under the age of three. It is prized for its fine, soft structure and often velvety appearance, typically sourced from young cows. Known for its durability and suppleness, calfskin is a popular choice for luxury leather goods.
• Lambskin: Lambskin comes from lambs. Lambskin is prized for its exceptional softness and flexibility, making it a preferred choice for luxury footwear. However, it is less durable than calf leather and more susceptible to wear.
• Sheepskin: Sheepskin is made of sheep. Ideal for leather clothing due to its lightweight, thin, and soft attributes. Sheep leather is perfect for summer wear, offering great flexibility and a fine texture that resists creasing.
• Goatskin: Durable and becoming more beautiful over time, goatskin is light, supple, and soft, making it excellent for practical and stylish clothing.
• Exotic Leathers: Materials such as python, ostrich, and crocodile offer unique textures and patterns. These leathers are typically more expensive and challenging to source sustainably but are highly valued for their distinct aesthetic and status.

So hopefully those characteristics helped you understand the nuances of each type of leather. Now let’s move onto the way leather is processed!

How is leather processed?

• Vegetable-tanned leather uses natural tannins from plants like tree bark. The hides soak in tannin-rich baths for weeks, resulting in firm, durable leather that ages beautifully. This eco-friendly method gives the leather a rich color and distinct aroma.
• Chrome-tanned leather is made using chromium salts, a much quicker process that takes just a few days. This method produces soft, flexible, and water-resistant leather. It’s popular in fashion for its smooth finish and vibrant dye options.
• Nubuck leather comes from the outer side of the hide, sanded to create a soft, velvety texture. It’s like suede but stronger, made from the top grain. Nubuck is luxurious but needs protection from stains and water.
• Napa leather is ultra-soft, smooth full-grain leather from lamb, kid, or cow hides. Chrome-tanned and treated with oils, it’s incredibly supple and often used in high-end products like gloves and upholstery. It’s durable and comfortable.
• Patent leather is treated with a high-gloss finish, often involving multiple layers of lacquer or polyurethane. This process gives the leather a shiny, mirror-like surface that is both stylish and durable. It’s popular in handbags and formal shoes for its sleek, polished look.
• PU Leather: A synthetic alternative that mimics the feel and properties of genuine leather at a lower cost and with varying degrees of quality.

Hmm.. that was a lot of info… but it still seems like we are missing one that is most commonly listed on product descriptions. What about ‘Genuine’ leather?!

What is ‘GENUINE’ LEATHER?

Nonsense – that’s what!

Don’t let the marketing terms confuse you! “Genuine leather” is a catch-all description to describe leather. Unfortunately, it is often used to trick customers into thinking a product is high quality leather.

Genuine leather is almost always the lowest quality, made from the leftovers and mixed with chemicals. All full-grain leather is genuine but not all genuine leather is full-grain.

Unfortunately, brands get away with using this term too much. So how do you know if you are getting good quality leather?

How do you know if you are getting good quality leather?

You have to do some detective-work. Make sure you read the product descriptions carefully…even for brands you’ve always known and loved! Due to shrinkflation, we believe previously-loved brands have switched from once-used top grain to bonded leather. What was once high quality, might not be now.

• Tip 1: If a product really is made of 100% full-grain, top-grain, calfskin, saffiano, leather, it will be call it out in the product details. You will not have to hunt for this information.
• Tip 2: Be mindful of the types of features called out in the description.
  • If the description is long, but there is nothing specifying the leather-type, then that should be a sign that the product is made from a bonded leather.
• Tip 3: For more info on the leather that the brand uses, check out its FAQ section.
• Tip 4: One more thing: be wary of the overuse of ‘Italian leather’ as this could be a marketing tactic (not always, but be on the lookout.) Yes, Italian leather is typically the best, but you could be getting Italian bonded leather, so be mindful!

Here is some helpful leather lingo

Terms that indicate you are very likely getting :

Full-Grain or Top Grain Leather:	Lambskin, Calfskin, Kidskin, Saffiano, Nubuck, Napa
Bonded leather or polyurethane:	Genuine, 100% leather, polyurethane, synthetic, a generic use of the word “leather”, man-made sole, imported (this means nothing… could be imported from China too!), vegan leather,

Not: If a product description includes multiple types of materials listed like in the one below, you are definitely not getting quality leather.

Conclusion: Making Informed Choices in Footwear

Navigating the world of leather can be tricky, but armed with the right knowledge, you can make confident and informed purchases. From the rugged durability of full-grain leather to the polished finish of patent leather, each type offers unique qualities suited to different needs and styles. Remember, terms like “genuine leather” can be misleading, so always scrutinize product descriptions and ask questions if needed. By understanding the nuances of leather processing and types, you’ll ensure that your next handbag or pair of shoes not only meets your aesthetic preferences but also stands the test of time. Happy shopping!